Liebe Leser!
Im vorletzten Beitrag habe ich euch beschrieben, dass – und vor allem wie – wir für eines der Projekte in den Norden, nach Mzuzu, gefahren sind. Die versprochene Fortsetzung – was wir dort eigentlich gemacht haben – möchte ich heute nachliefern. Die letzten Tage war mal wieder – wie eigentlich die ganze Zeit bisher hier – ziemlich viel los, deswegen hat es ein Weilchen gedauert.
NACRO, die Hilfsorganisation, die ich hier unterstütze, ist in verschiedenen Bereichen tätig, die pauschal unter dem oft verwendeten Begriff der Entwicklungshilfe zusammengefasst werden können. Aber was heißt das denn konkret? Diese Frage stellt man sich wahrscheinlich spätestens dann, wenn man beginnt, in diesem Feld tätig zu werden. Aber auch schon zuvor, in der Überlegungs- und Vorbereitungsphase habt ihr mich des öfteren gefragt, was ich denn dann genau in Malawi machen würde. Wir haben in der weit entfernten Welt des entwickelten Europas zwar eine grobe Vorstellung davon, was da wohl so alles gemacht wird, konkret ist es aber eben gar nicht so klar und einfach beantwortet, wie das Ganze denn in Realität und Praxis, aus der Nähe anstatt aus der Ferne, wirklich aussieht. So ging es mir auch, sodass es mir anfangs gar nicht so leicht fiel, die Frage nach meinen genauen Aufgaben hier zu beantworten. Ich habe mich auf dieses Experiment schlussendlich einfach einmal eingelassen und habe darauf vertraut, dass hier sinnvolle Arbeit getan wird und mich dazu entschieden, diese für eine bestimmte Zeit zu versuchen zu unterstützen und eben am eigenen Leib zu erfahren, was das bedeutet.
Die Ziele, die sich NACRO auf die blau-weiße Fahne geschrieben hat, sind in der Verfassung der Organisation klar formuliert. Das über allem stehende Ziel ist die nachhaltige Verbesserung der Lebensumstände der Menschen in den betreuten Ländern, Sambia, Malawi und Simbabwe. Konkreter bedeutet das, dass NACRO versucht, einen Beitrag dafür zu leisten, in den folgenden Bereichen eine Verbesserung zu erreichen, die den betroffenen Menschen konkret und nachhaltig zugute kommt:
- Bildung
- Gesundheit
- Sauberes Trinkwasser
- Sanitätseinrichtungen
- Bildung im Bereich Hygiene
- Nahrungssicherung
- Einkommenssicherung
- Katastrophenhilfe
Übergeordnetes Ziel und quasi Grundvoraussetzung, um an der Erreichung der genannten Ziele überhaupt arbeiten zu können, ist die Sicherstellung ausreichender Ressourcen und der organisatorischen Handlungsfähigkeit – auf Deutsch also Finanzmittel und – großteils freiwillige / ehrenamtliche – Mitarbeiter.
Die Methoden, die NACRO anwendet, um die gesetzten Ziele zu erreichen, sind:
- Bewusstseinsbildung in der Gesellschaft durch Workshops unter Einbeziehung der Bevölkerung
- Nachhaltige Landwirtschaft
- Schaffung von Erntemöglichkeiten während der Trockenzeit (bspw. durch Bewässerungssysteme)
- Aufbau und Nutzung lokaler Strukturen (bspw. der Kirche)
- Partnerschaften und Zusammenarbeit mit verschiedenen Organisationen
- Notfallmaßnahmen nach Katastrophen
- Förderung und Unterstützung von Initiativen aus der Gesellschaft heraus
- Kontakt und Austausch mit Volksvertretern aus Politik und Verwaltung
Bei alledem berücksichtigt NACRO die Werte und Prinzipien der verschiedenen lokalen Gemeinschaften sowie deren Bedürfnisse und Nöte, bevor Initiativen ergriffen und schließlich Entwicklungshilfeprojekte gestartet werden.
So viel zur Theorie – nun ein Beispiel aus der Praxis, bei dem ich vor Kurzem beteiligt war. In Mzuzu läuft aktuell ein Projekt, bei dem insgesamt zehn Häuser, bzw. kleine Häuschen, um es besser in deutsche Verhältnisse einordnen zu können, für sehr arme Menschen gebaut werden. Bei dem aktuellen Projekteinsatz in Mzuzu ging es konkret um vier dieser Häuser, die bereits kurz vor der Fertigstellung stehen. Ziel und Aufgabe unseres Einsatzes in Mzuzu war es, die Baustellen mit weiteren Baumaterialien zu versorgen, damit die Bauarbeiten weitergehen und schnellstmöglich abgeschlossen werden können.
„Wir dachten, du schaffst da richtig was!?“, habe ich in den letzten Wochen schon so manches Mal gehört, wenn ich Bilder von mir im Hemd im Büro nach Hause geschickt hatte. Ich muss zugeben, auch ich selbst dachte ganz am Anfang, dass ich hier her kommen würde, um mit Schaufel und in Gummistiefeln im Dreck stehend Löcher für Brunnen ausgraben würde. Als ich mich dann mit der Thematik etwas beschäftigt und mit den Kollegen von NAK-karitativ aus Dortmund ausgiebig gesprochen hatte, wurde mir dann aber recht schnell klar, dass das schlichtweg nicht zielführend wäre. Den Menschen hier im Land ist viel „sinnvoller“ und „nachhaltiger“ geholfen, um diese Worte nochmals zu bemühen, wenn sie in den Prozess der Entwicklungshilfe direkt und aktiv miteinbezogen werden. So profitieren in diesem konkreten Fall durch den Bau der Häuser einerseits natürlich die Menschen, die später in diesen Häusern wohnen werden. Andererseits wird aber auch ein zusätzlicher Beitrag für die Gesellschaft dadurch geleistet, dass die Häuser durch einheimische Arbeiter gebaut werden. Nicht nur, dass diese viel besser wissen, wie hier eben Häuser gebaut werden – und das ist ganz anders als bei uns, kann ich euch sagen. Sie haben dadurch außerdem Beschäftigung – die einheimische Wirtschaft wird also ein kleines bisschen angekurbelt. Die Organisation dagegen initiiert, plant, koordiniert und finanziert die Projekte schließlich und leistet dadurch einen Beitrag, der von der involvierten Bevölkerung weniger gut geleistet werden könnte.
Am frühen Morgen des ersten Arbeitstags in Mzuzu, einem Donnerstag, trafen wir uns zunächst mit Andrew, Harvey und Charles, um die konkreten Schritte für die nächsten Tage zu besprechen. Andrew ist ein Freiwilliger aus Mzuzu, der die Organisation in der Projektkoordination vor Ort unterstützt. Harvey und Charles sind lokale Kleinunternehmer, die von NACRO beauftragt wurden, um die Häuser in ihrer konkreten Ausführung und Beschaffenheit zu planen sowie die Bauarbeiten auf den Baustellen bis zur Fertigstellung zu koordinieren.
Eine Übersicht der benötigten Baumaterialien inkl. aller dafür veranschlagten Kosten lagen der Organisation bereits vor dem Baubeginn vor. Die Gesamtkosten für ein komplettes Haus werden laut Plan ca. 3.000 Euro betragen. Die Maurerarbeiten der Häuser waren bereits weit fortgeschritten, jedoch noch nicht abgeschlossen. Als nächste Schritte sollten die Dachkonstruktionen errichtet, die Dächer gedeckt, Fenster und Türen eingesetzt werden. Wir benötigten also Ziegelsteine, Bauholz, Wellblech, Zement, Sand, kiloweise Nägel. Die morgendliche Planungssitzung fand im Kirchenschiff des Kirchengebäudes in Mzuzu statt. Hier haben Anthony, Andrew, Harvey und Charles eine sinnvolle Reihenfolge für die einzelnen Besorgungen festgelegt, während ich zunächst versuchte, allem zu folgen. Anfangs vorbildlich bemüht, für mich, den Mzungu, verständlich in Englisch zu sprechen, rutschten die Gespräche dann doch immer wieder in – nein, nicht Chichewa, sondern in Tumbuka ab, die im Norden hauptsächlich gesprochene Sprache.
Kleiner Exkurs „Sprache“: Chichewa wird vom Großteil der Bevölkerung in Malawi gesprochen, daneben Englisch. Gerade die ländliche Bevölkerung spricht aber häufig nur ihre „eigene“ Sprache, im Norden eben Tumbuka. Beide genannten Sprachen, Chichewa und Tumbuka, sind Bantusprachen. Anthony bspw. stammt ursprünglich aus dem Norden, sodass Tumbuka seine eigentliche Muttersprache ist. Da seine Ehefrau aus dem Süden stammt, und dort hauptsächlich Chinyanya gesprochen wird, unterhalten sich die beiden zu Hause in Chichewa oder Englisch. Die Vorsilbe „Chi“ bedeutet übrigens „Sprache der…“. Chichewa bedeutet also Sprache der Chewa, ein Bantu-Volk. Genauso müsste es dann ja eigentlich auch Chitumbuka heißen – heißt es auch, es wird hier aber meist nur Tumbuka ohne Chi verwendet…
Um die Kosten für die Baumaterialien, die wir in den nächsten Tagen besorgen wollten, bestreiten zu können, brauchten wir geeignete Zahlungsmittel. Diese sind hier in Malawi für solche Aktivitäten entweder Bargeld oder – unter Umständen – Schecks. Anthony hatte bereits Schecks für diejenigen Geschäftspartner im Büro in Lilongwe vorbereitet, die Schecks als Zahlungsmittel akzeptieren. Für einige der anstehenden Beschaffungen brauchten wir jedoch Bargeld. Dafür suchten wir die Filiale unserer Hausbank, die FDH Bank, auf, um das entsprechende Kleingeld abzuholen. Ein paar freundliche Gespräche mit den Bankangestellten, die Anthony von der Zeit kannte, als das Büro der Organisation noch in Mzuzu war, und wir erhielten ein paar gebundene Päckchen aus 2.000-Kwacha-Scheinen. Insgesamt waren es ca. 4.000 Euro – die den mitgebrachten Rucksack zur Hälfte füllten.
Zur Beschaffung des Bauholzes fuhren wir zum lokalen Holzhandel. Natürlich hatte ich etwas wie das Bauhaus in Untertürkheim erwartet. 🙂 „Wie konnte ich nur!?“, schoss es mir dann gleich durch den Kopf, als wir am Holzmarkt von Mzuzu ankamen. Dieser befindet sich am Rand der Stadt und ist an den lokalen Markt angegliedert, wo auch Obst und Gemüse, (lebende) Hühner, Autoteile und auch sonst eben alles Mögliche angeboten werden. Während ich mich als Fahrer betätigen durfte und auf unseren himmelblauen Toyota Hilux aufpasste, gingen die Kollegen los, um das Holz klar zu machen.
Der nächste Schritt war die Organisation geeigneter Transporteure, also Lkws und Arbeiter. Beides findet man auf dem Holzmarkt recht einfach. Es handelt sich um Tagelöhner, die auf Arbeit warten. Dabei ist der Begriff ohne Wertung, beschreibt das Modell eben am treffendsten. Das benötigte Holz wurde auf zwei kleinere blaue Lkws aufgeladen. Bevor das Holz auf der Baustelle verwendet werden konnte, musste es zunächst noch zugerichtet werden. Dafür fuhren wir wenige Meter weiter ins lokale Sägewerk von Mzuzu – ein kleiner Verschlag direkt an der Straße, wo teilweise barfüßige junge Kerle an einer mit Benzinmotor betriebenen Kreissäge arbeiteten und schließlich unsere Bretter auf die richtige Breite zusägten. Bereits aus einigen Metern Entfernung war der Lärm kaum auszuhalten. Die Jungs standen dagegen direkt an der Säge – ohne jegliche persönliche Schutzausrüstung wie Gehörschutz oder Stahlkappenschuhe – barfuß eben.
Mir schoss der Gedanke durch den Kopf, ob es für uns als Organisation, die versucht, die Dinge „richtig“ und „gut“ zu machen, denn nicht angebracht wäre, nur die Dienste von Betrieben in Anspruch zu nehmen, die entsprechend auf Arbeitssicherheit achten. Am Ende des Projekteinsatzes in Mzuzu wusste ich, dass dies eben ein sehr europäischer oder deutscher Gedanke war und dass wir schlussendlich einfach keine Häuser bauen würden, wenn wir uns dies selbst als Bedingung vorgeben würden. Auch aus Deutschland finanzierte Entwicklungshilfe muss sich schlussendlich an die landestypischen Gegebenheiten anpassen und die Entwicklung eines noch nicht so weit entwickelten Landes kann auch nur Schritt für Schritt erfolgen.
Nachdem die Balken und Bretter auf die richtigen Maße zugesägt waren, sollten einige Bretter noch gehobelt werden. Da es sich um eine elektrisch betriebene Hobelmaschine handelte, es gerade aber keinen Strom gab (ich spreche bewusst nicht von Stromausfall, dazu in einem der kommenden Beiträge mehr), musste dies jedoch verschoben werden. So fuhren wir mit dem bereits einsatzfähigen Bauholz zu den vier Baustellen, um das Material abzuliefern.
Die Häuser, die gebaut werden, befinden sich in kleinen abgelegenen Dörfchen um Mzuzu herum. Die Wege dorthin entsprechen ungefähr genau dem, was wir uns unter afrikanischen Straßenverhältnissen vorstellen – rote Erdwege, teilweise extrem zerklüftet – richtige Offroadstrecken! Während unser Toyota Pickup prädestiniert für solche Strecken scheint, war mir zuerst völlig schleierhaft, wie es möglich sein sollte, mit den angemieteten Lkws „hier“ durchzukommen. Erstaunlicherweise funktionierte das aber einigermaßen gut. Die Einheimischen haben ihre Erfahrung und daraus eine teilweise beeindruckende, teilweise erschreckende Gelassenheit. Wo ich manches Mal dachte, dass wir gleich mit der Seitenwand unseres Fahrzeugs die Lehmwand der Böschung streifen würden, bretterten die Lkws vor uns durch, die Ladefläche voll mit Holz und Arbeitern, die den größten Spaß zu haben schienen.
In den Dörfern nach und nach angekommen, bekam ich einen Eindruck von den Häusern und dem aktuellen Baufortschritt und lernte außerdem die zukünftigen Besitzerinnen der Häuser kennen. Ah, er hat die weibliche Wortform verwendet. 🙂 Es handelt sich ausschließlich um ältere Frauen, die in die Häuser einziehen werden, sobald diese in einigen Wochen fertiggestellt sein werden.
Insgesamt fiel mir auf, dass wir in den Dörfern hauptsächlich Frauen und viele Kinder antrafen – eine Art Déjà-vu, weil ich damals in Südafrika einmal Ähnliches erlebt hatte. Immer, wenn mir etwas auffällig erschien, sprach ich Anthony später in einem ruhigen Moment oder eben zwischendurch an. Seine Erklärung war, in meinen Worten ausgedrückt, dass einige der Männer in den Dörfern nicht so viel von Sesshaftigkeit und Beständigkeit hielten. Die Babies / Kleinkinder, die die teilweise sehr jungen Frauen auf den Rücken gebunden hatten, seien häufig das Ergebnis flüchtiger Bekanntschaften. Manches Mal versuchten die Mädchen auch, sich dadurch etwas Geld zu verdienen, um die Familie zu unterstützen.
Die begünstigten Frauen zeigten sich alle äußerst dankbar und freudig darüber, dass sie bald deutliche verbesserte Wohnverhältnisse haben würden. Eine der Frauen bspw. lebt heute in einem kleinen Bretterverschlag, der größtenteils mit Plastiktüten verkleidet ist. Eine andere Frau zeigte uns ihre Dankbarkeit, indem sie sich vor uns auf den Boden warf, was ich eher als unangenehm empfand. Anthony erklärte mir, dass dies schlichtweg die Art und Weise sei, wie in der dortigen Kultur Dankbarkeit zum Ausdruck gebracht wird. In einer anderen Region ist es wohl üblich, dass sich die Menschen auf dem Boden rollen, um sich zu bedanken. Ich musste lachen. 🙂
Bei der Auswahl der Begünstigten – wer bekommt ein Haus und wer nicht – werden einerseits die dörflichen, andererseits, im Fall, dass es sich bei den potentiell Begünstigten um Mitglieder der Kirche handelt, die kirchlichen Strukturen genutzt, um herauszufinden, wer die Hilfe am nötigsten hat. Auch heute noch spielen die Dorfhäuptlinge, die sogenannten Mfumus, eine wichtige gesellschaftliche Rolle in Malawi. Sie werden in alle Projekte miteinbezogen, die in dem entsprechenden Dorf durchgeführt werden sollen. Von ihrer Zustimmung hängt es im Endeffekt mit ab, ob ein Projekt erfolgreich umgesetzt werden kann oder nicht. Mfumu wird man durch Geburt, eine bestimmte Familie stellt seit Generationen den Mfumu – daran kann nichts geändert werden. Die Mfumus gehen im Alltag häufig normalen Berufen nach, sind auch gewöhnlich gekleidet, aber haben eben die Zusatzfunktion des Dorfkönigs inne.
Nachdem das Holz abgeladen war, sollte es mit den weiteren Baumaterialien weitergehen. Dazu besuchten wir unter anderem einen Hardware Store – eine Art Baumarkt. Aber eben wieder nicht das, was wir von zu Hause her kennen oder bspw. aus den USA, wo Baumärkte auch Hardware Store heißen. Es handelt sich um einen recht kleinen Raum, der dafür bis zur Decke mit den verschiedensten Produkten vollgestopft ist, die man im Baumarkt eben so findet. Erstaunlich, was dort alles verfügbar ist. Die freundlichen Mitarbeiter haben hier spezielle Nägel für uns abgewogen, von denen wir mehrere Kilos pro Haus benötigten. Außerdem stimmten die Kollegen die Beschaffung für die Zimmertüren für das Hausinnere ab.
Ziegelsteine waren der nächste Punkt auf unserer Einkaufsliste – 21.000 Stück! Dafür benötigten wir größere Lkws. Wieder hatte ich zunächst einen deutschen Baustoffhandel im Sinn – ich konnte mir einfach nicht vorstellen, was ich in den nächsten Stunden erleben sollte. Zunächst fuhren wir zurück zum Holzmarkt, wo wie gesagt auch Transporter inkl. Besatzung zu finden waren. Harvey organisierte in kürzester Zeit neue Lkws – dieses Mal ein weißer Hino und ein weißer alter Mercedes, der so ähnlich aussah wie ein Vario mit Pritsche, es war aber, glaub ich, ein anderes Modell. Auf der Ladefläche jedes der beiden Lkws standen ca. sechs bis acht Arbeiter, als wir in Richtung „Ziegelsteinhandel“ los fuhren. Tja, dieser musste aber zuerst einmal ausfindig gemacht werden. Wie läuft das in Malawi ab? Wenn man aufmerksam durch die Gegend fährt, fällt einem auf, dass immer wieder Ziegelsteine aufgestapelt am Straßenrand stehen. Dort hält man dann an und spricht mit den Menschen, die sich in der Nähe befinden. Eine kurze Verhandlung auf Tumbuka, die der deutsche Mzungu natürlich nicht verstand, und schon bewegte sich die Kolonne aus zweimal Lkw und einmal Pickup weiter, um wenig später abzubiegen. Die nächste abenteuerliche Fahrt mitten durch den malawischen Busch begann, führe über ebenso schwierig zu befahrende Wege an Tabakpflanzenfeldern vorbei und endete dann irgendwann scheinbar mitten im Nirgendwo. Wir hielten an, um den restlichen Weg zu Fuß zurückzulegen, die Lkws waren noch ein paar Meter weiter gefahren. Schließlich stießen wir auf einen großen Berg aus feinsäuberlich aufgeschichteten Ziegelsteinen – mitten im Busch. Die Qualität der Ziegelsteine wurde geprüft – und für nicht ausreichend befunden. Aber keine Sorge, ungefähr 50 Meter weiter steht schon der nächste Haufen. Die Qualität erschien beim prüfenden Aneinanderklopfen besser. Es konnte losgehen! Unsere angeheuerten Arbeiter legten los und fingen damit an, den Ziegelsteinberg auf der einen Seite ab- auf der anderen Seite – nämlich auf der Ladefläche der Lkws – aufzubauen. Dabei packten die Arbeiter gebückt bis zu sechs Ziegelsteine gleichzeitig und schwangen diese durch die Luft in Richtung des Kollegen, der auf der Ladefläche stand. Durch die Trägheit blieben die Steine dabei weitestgehend beieinander und wurden als zusammenhängendes Paket von dem Kollege auf dem Lkw gefangen und sogleich einsortiert. Wie Tetris, nur, dass alle Steine die gleiche Form hatten. Das Ganze ging wirklich ruck-zuck und es war wieder einmal beeindruckend, dies zu verfolgen. Erschreckend wiederum erneut, dass auch die Arbeiter teilweise barfuß inmitten der Ziegelsteine standen, wenn nicht barfuß, dann in Flip-Flops oder sonstigem – aus Sicht deutscher Arbeitssicherheit – ungeeignetem Schuhwerk.
Unsere Aufgabe bei der ganzen Aktion war es, sicherzustellen, dass am Ende die richtige Anzahl an Ziegelsteinen aufgeladen wurde und den Eigentümer derselben entsprechend zu bezahlen. Ein Ziegelstein kostete zehn bis zwölf Kwacha, das entspricht umgerechnet ca. einem Eurocent! Ich nutzte die Zeit, die wir hatten, während wir darauf warteten, bis die Lkws beladen waren – dies dauerte ca. eine halbe Stunde – und fragte Anthony, warum bitte um alles in der Welt mitten im Busch haufenweise Ziegelsteine lagerten. Die Erklärung: Die Ziegelsteine werden von den Bewohnern aus der Umgebung hergestellt, um sich ein Einkommen zu erwirtschaften. Dazu wird die Erde aus etwas tieferen Schichten aus dem Boden geholt, deren Konsistenz sich am besten für die Herstellung der Ziegelsteine eignet. Die Steine werden zunächst geformt, anschließend gebrannt und schließlich zur Lagerung im Feld gestapelt. Die Herstellung dieser Art von Ziegeln wird von den Behörden inzwischen nicht mehr so gern gesehen, weil für den Brennvorgang große Mengen an Brennholz benötigt werden, das von den Herstellern eben auch aus der Umgebung herangeschafft wird. Langfristig soll wohl auf zementbasierende Steine umgestellt werden, diese kosten jedoch ein Vielfaches der konventionellen Steine aus Lehm. Die Lagerfläche mitten im Busch ist wohl eine Kombination daraus, dass die Steine eben dort in der näheren Umgebung herstellt werden und sie dort von niemandem gefunden werden können, der sie nicht finden soll. Plötzlich kam Unruhe im Ziegelsteinlager auf – die nachträgliche Erklärung Anthonys schlaute mich darüber auf, dass inzwischen der wahre Eigentümer der Ziegelsteine aufgetaucht war. Die Wegweiser am Straßenrand, die sich als die Eigentümer ausgegeben hatten, waren wohl gar nicht die Eigentümer, sondern versuchten, die Steine eines anderen an uns zu verkaufen. Ich fragte Anthony, wie man denn schlussendlich sicher sein könnte, wer der wirkliche Eigentümer ist. Man kann nicht.
Bei allen Transaktionen, die wir für die Organisationen abwickeln, achten wir penibel darauf, die entsprechenden Belege zu erhalten, da am Ende jeder Cent, äh Tambala, nachgewiesen werden muss. Schließlich war unser Kollege Erick, der unter anderem für die Buchhaltung zuständig ist, in Lilongwe geblieben, weil dort gerade das externe Audit durch KPMG für den Jahresabschluss 2017 stattfand. Fast alle der Geschäftspartner, von denen wir in diesen Tagen Güter gegen Geld erhielten, hielten Quittungsbücher bereit. Es erschien mir jedoch offensichtlich, dass diese nur dann zum Einsatz kamen, wenn der jeweilige Geschäftspartner auf der Gegenseite, in diesem Fall wir, darauf bestand, einen Beleg zu bekommen. Ebenso bin ich davon überzeugt, dass manche unserer Geschäftspartner ihren Teil des Belegs, den Durchschlag, nach Abschluss des Geschäfts vergessen würden. Der Ziegelsteinhändler schließlich besaß überhaupt keinen Quittungsblock. Kurzerhand sprangen die Transporteure ein und nahmen die paar Tausend Ziegelsteine eben mit auf ihre Rechnung drauf. Formell hatten damit also die Transporteure die Ziegelsteine ohne Beleg beim Ziegelsteinhändler gekauft und sie an uns ohne weiteren Gewinnaufschlag weiter verkauft. Flexibel muss man eben sein! 🙂
Weitere Stationen während der Tage in Mzuzu waren der Schweißer, der die metallenen Fensterrahmen herstellt sowie der Schreiner, der die Haustüren baut. Beide haben ihre Werkstatt direkt im Wohnhaus oder an das Wohnhaus angegliedert. Es handelt sich um sogenannte Small Enterprises, also Kleinunternehmen. Zusammen mit den Medium Enterprises, also mittelgroßen Unternehmen stellen sie die sogenannten SMEs dar. Diese Klasse von Unternehmen und Betrieben versucht NACRO verstärkt zu unterstützen. Dabei sollen die Unternehmer befähigt werden, um sich ihren Lebensunterhalt durch ihre Geschäftstätigkeit verdienen zu können. Gleichzeitig können sie als positives Beispiel in ihrer Umgebung wirken: Wer selbst aktiv wird und etwas auf die Beine stellt, kann seinen Lebensstandard steigern. Wie die Befähigung in der Praxis im ganz Kleinen aussehen kann, konnte ich beim Schreiner erleben, als Andrew ihm dabei geholfen hat, die Quittung, die wir benötigen, so auszufüllen, dass sie den Anforderungen entspricht.
Am letzten Abend, dem Freitagabend, wollten Anthony und ich uns noch ein Feierabendbierchen zuführen. Hierzu waren wir bereits am Donnerstag tagsüber am Sunbird Mzuzu, der ersten Hoteladresse am Ort vorgefahren, wo sich Anthony bei einem der Angestellten aus dem Auto heraus erkundigte, ob am Freitag in der dem Hotel angeschlossenen Disko was los sei. Der Hotelmitarbeiter bestätigte dies – am Freitag ab 21 Uhr sollte hier der Bär steppen. Am Freitagabend machten wir uns nach dem Abendessen, das wir wie üblich in der Lodge eingenommen hatten, auf in Richtung Hotel. Dort angekommen, erkannten wir bereits auf dem Parkplatz, dass (noch?) nicht wirklich viel los zu sein schien, die laute Musik aus dem Inneren war allerdings auch draußen deutlich zu hören. Wir gingen mal rein. Neben ein paar vereinzelten männlichen Gästen mittleren Alters, die an der Bar saßen, herrschte gähnende Leere. Für ein schnelles erstes Bier ließen wir uns dennoch an der Bar nieder. Die Preise hatten es für hiesige Verhältnisse in sich. Anthony bestellte sich ein Kuche Kuche – eines der wenigen lokalen Biersorten. Ich wählte Carlsberg Green, ebenfalls in Malawi gebraut.
Kleiner Exkurs „Bier“: Bereits in der ersten Woche hatte ich die sehr überschaubare Auswahl der lokalen Biere mehr oder weniger durchprobiert. Überzeugen konnte mich keines so wirklich. Am Anfang meines Blogs habe ich euch versichert, ich würde mich mit Bewertungen zurückhalten, aber beim Bier hört der Spaß halt einfach auf. 😉 Das Deutsche Reinheitsgebot von 1516, das quasi in der ganzen Welt angewendet wird und häufig auch in Deutsch auf so mancher nicht-deutschen Bierflasche zu lesen ist, ist in Malawi offenbar unbekannt – neben den drei bei uns ausschließlich verwendeten Zutaten Wasser, Malz, Hopfen, wird dem „Bier“ in Malawi gern noch Stärke und Zucker zugesetzt. Bislang hatte ich für mich Carlsberg Green sozusagen als das geringste Übel ausgemacht – ein wirklicher Genuss ist es aber nicht. Inzwischen – ein paar Wochen später – habe ich Carlsberg Chill entdeckt. Das schmeckt zwar auch etwas … „anders“, aber zumindest hatte ich damit „danach“ bislang die geringsten Nachwirkungen. Ich habe es Anthony noch nicht gestanden, ich bin mir bewusst, dass ich da vorsichtig vorgehen muss 😉 , aber das von ihm favorisierte Kuche Kuche habe ich – Schwabe hin oder her – tatsächlich nicht ausgetrunken, sondern im Abfluss der Duka Premier Lodge versenkt… Inzwischen hab ich auch Castle Lager sowie Carling Black Label aus Südafrika entdeckt, Erinnerungen werden wach. Allerdings sind diese Sorten importiert und entsprechend teu(r)er und ich versuche sie, aus Dekadenzgründen zu vermeiden.
Anthony und ich waren uns einig, dass wir hier nicht alt werden würden, so verließen wir das Sunbird Mzuzu nach gefühlt fünf, in Wirklichkeit wahrscheinlich nach 15 Minuten. Anthony hatte noch eine weitere Idee. Hierzu mussten wir ein paar Kilometer aus Mzuzu heraus fahren und kamen schließlich an einer anderen Bar an. Dort war nun wirklich überhaupt gar nichts los, sodass wir nicht einmal hineingingen. Ich fragte Anthony ganz verwundert, wo denn die ganzen jungen Leute in Mzuzu hin gingen am Wochenende, ich konnte es nicht glauben, dass wir an den bisher aufgesuchten Orten quasi keine Menschen antrafen. Anthony meinte dann etwas zögerlich, dass es da schon noch ein, zwei Orte gäbe, wo was los sein könnte, er sei sich aber nicht sicher, ob er mich dorthin mitnehmen könnte. Ich fasste das nicht so auf, als würde er sich mit mir schämen, oder als wäre ich an besagten Orten nicht willkommen, sondern Anthony fürchtete wohl, die Orte könnten etwas zu abgeranzt für meinen Geschmack sein. Ich bestärkte ihn, dass ich da völlig schmerzfrei sei und so fuhren wir zurück in die Stadt und waren kurzerhand später in einer stark belebten Straße, die auf beiden Seiten von Bars gesäumt war. So hatte ich mir das vorgestellt. Überall junge Leute, zwischendurch kleine Grillbuden, von wo eine Mischung aus Rauch und dem Duft von gebratenem Fleisch aufstieg. Wir gingen in eine der Bars – ich kann mich an den Name nicht mehr erinnern – und ich war begeistert. Zwischendurch waren plötzlich Musik und Licht aus und wir standen im Stockdunkeln. Wo bei uns in Deutschland wahrscheinlich jeder Panik bekommen hätte, da wir das einfach nicht gewöhnt sind, passiert dies hier eben ab und zu mal und so blieb alles ruhig. Ein paar Handytaschenlampen wurden eingeschaltet und nach wenigen Minuten waren Licht und Musik zurück – dem Generator irgendwo im Hinterhof sei Dank. An dieser Stelle endet die detaillierte Beschreibung eines im weiteren Verlauf wirklich netten Abends – das erste Mal „Weggehen“ in Malawi: bestanden.
Unglaublich intensive Tage, angefüllt von vielen, ganz neuen, teilweise wirklich krassen Eindrücken näherten sich dem Ende und am Samstagmittag machten Anthony und ich uns wieder in Richtung „zu Hause“, nach Lilongwe auf. Anthony hatte bereits kurz nach der Ankunft in Mzuzu versprochen gehabt, dass er dann erst wieder in Lilongwe fahren würde. So lag es also an mir, uns sicher zurück in die Hauptstadt zu bringen. Inzwischen Fernreise erprobt auf Malawis Straßen und weil zum Glück und im wahrsten Sinn des Wortes hellichter Tag war, stellte dies für mich kein Problem dar. 😉
Schon auf dem Hinweg nach Mzuzu bei der Anreise waren mir Verkäufer am Straßenrand aufgefallen, die – aus der Ferne des Autos betrachtet – kleine schwarze Dinger in Körben anboten. Es handelt sich um Ameisen, die man zu Hause frittiert, ein lokaler Delikatessensnack. Wir kamen nicht mehr dazu, es zu probieren, das steht also noch auf meiner Liste. Dafür hielten wir an, um für Anthony Holzkohle zu kaufen – damit auch in den Phasen des nicht verfügbaren Stroms gekocht werden könne, so Anthony. Die Holzkohle steht dabei mutterseelenallein in riesigen weißen Plastiksäcken verpackt am Straßenrand. Sobald man anhält, springen die Verkäufer aber aus dem grünen Dschungel rechts und links der Straße, um das Geschäft zu machen. Warum verstecken die sich? Die wilde Erzeugung von Grillkohle ist verboten, um die Verwertung der umliegenden Gehölze auf diese Weise einzudämmen. Die Kohle ist um Einiges günstiger als in der Stadt. Wir haben zwei Säcke eingeladen. Gut, dass wir einen Pickup dabei hatten. Auch in der Stadt sieht man immer wieder Fahrradfahrer, die solche Säcke mit Grillkohle auf dem Gepäckträger transportieren. Dabei ist auffällig, dass die Säcke den Einheimischen offenbar häufig etwas zu klein sind. Dann, oder wenn der Sack Risse oder Löcher hat, wird der fehlende Bereich einfach mit einem Geflecht aus Stöckchen und Pflanzenfasern erweitert, es wird also eine Art Netz gebastelt, sodass insgesamt mehr Kohle transportiert werden kann – „Unglaublich!“, fand ich, als ich es zum ersten Mal gesehen hatte.
Einen weiteren Zwischenstopp legten wir bei einem Gemüsemarkt am Straßenrand irgendwo zwischen Mzuzu und Lilongwe ein. Der Markt ist überregional bekannt und es ist quasi Pflicht, hier anzuhalten, wenn man auf dieser Route unterwegs ist, um sich ausreichend mit Vorräten einzudecken. Die Qualität ist gut und die Preise erheblich günstiger als in der Stadt. Kaum hatten wir angehalten, stürmten schon die verschiedenen Verkäuferinnen auf uns ein, jede wollte uns ihre Erzeugnisse verkaufen. Anthony steuerte zielstrebig auf eine bestimmte Händlerin zu, die er schon länger kennt, die ihn immer mit guter Ware versorgt hat. Wenn sie selbst nicht das gewünschte Gemüse zum Verkauf anbietet, dann agiert sie für Anthony als Agentin und besorgt gute Ware bei ihren Konkurrentinnen. Mit etlichen Plastiktüten voll mit Kartoffeln, Zwiebeln, Bohnen, Kohl und weiterem Gemüse verließen wir den Markt – Anthony sichtlich zufrieden über die günstig erstandenen Lebensmittel, ich vor allem mal wieder – beeindruckt.
Am späten Nachmittag erreichten wir schließlich wieder wohlbehalten Lilongwe und obwohl ich zu diesem Zeitpunkt erst knapp zwei Wochen hier in Malawi war, stellte sich bei der Ankunft in Lilongwe schon ein bisschen ein Gefühl ein, nach Hause zu kommen – also vorübergehend. 😉
Nach wie vor sonnige und heiße Grüße ins echte zu Hause und nun: Frohe Ostern!
Euer Holger
Ja Holger dann kannst du bald dein Häusle selber bauen!
Dein Bericht war wieder sehr interessant. Unvorstellbar was du dort in Mali alles erlebst.
Wir denken oft an dich. Machs weiter gut und bleib xsund.
Viele liebe Grüße 🙂
Hi Holger, zu den gegrillten Ameisen passt ja so ein gezuckertes Bier ja garnicht trotzdem guten Appetit.
Lg. Carlos & Florentina
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It tells a story of how these „agents“ are trying to turn us into machines. We are closer then ever before for this to become a reality when they cause us to receive an implantable microchip in our body during a time when physical money will be no more.
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„He (the false prophet who deceives many by his miracles) causes all, both small and great, rich and poor, free and slave, to receive a mark on their right hand or on their foreheads, and that no one may buy or sell except one who has the mark or the name of the beast, or the number of his name…
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…Here is wisdom. Let him who has understanding calculate the number of the beast, for it is the number of a man: His number is 666″ (Revelation 13:16-18 NKJV).
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In the Islamic religion they have man called the Mahdi who is known as their messiah of whom they are waiting to take the stage. There are many testimonies from people online who believe this man will be Barack Obama who is to be the biblical Antichrist based off dreams they have received. I myself have had strange dreams about him like no other person. So much so that I decided to share this information.
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„And He (Jesus) said to them (His disciples), ‚I saw Satan fall like lightning from heaven'“ (Luke 10:18).
In the Hebrew language we can uncover the meaning behind the name Barack Obama.
Barack, also transliterated as Baraq, in Hebrew is: lightning
baraq – Biblical definition:
From Strongs H1299; lightning; by analogy a gleam; concretely a flashing sword: – bright, glitter (-ing, sword), lightning. (Strongs Hebrew word H1300 baraq baw-rawk‘)
Barak ‚O’bamah, The use of bamah is used to refer to the „heights“ of Heaven.
bamah – Biblical definition:
From an unused root (meaning to be high); an elevation: – height, high place, wave. (Strongs Hebrew word H1116 bamah baw-maw‘)
The day following the election of Barack Obama (11/04/08), the winning pick 3 lotto numbers in Illinois (Obama’s home state) for 11/5/08 were 666.
Obama was a U.S. senator for Illinois, and his zip code was 60606.
Seek Jesus while He may be found…repent, confess and forsake your sins and trust in the savior! Jesus says we must be born again by His Holy Spirit to enter the kingdom of God…God bless!
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