1000 Worte – oder so…

Liebe Leser!

Endlich komme ich dazu, den vor inzwischen knapp einer Woche versprochenen ersten „echten Inhalt“ zu liefern! Die letzten vier Tage war ich für eines der aktuellen Projekte im Norden des Landes unterwegs (dazu später mehr). Dort gab es weder ausreichend Zeit und Ruhe noch zuverlässig ausreichend schnelles Internet und … – ok, genug der Ausreden, jetzt geht es ja los!

Vorab möchte ich anmerken, dass alles, was ich hier veröffentlichen werde, meine subjektive Sicht darstellt (logisch, was sonst), meine persönlichen Wahrnehmungen und die Interpretation dieser Wahrnehmungen. Es ist durchaus möglich, dass ich manche Wahrnehmung und manche Interpretation im Lauf der Zeit hier vor Ort in Malawi anpassen werde, je mehr ich mich an die neue Umgebung gewöhnt haben werde.
Einem Tipp folgend, der mich kurz nach der Ankunft hier von zu Hause erreicht hat, möchte ich meine Eindrücke, die vor allem in der Anfangszeit sicher am intensivsten sind, möglichst ungefiltert wiedergeben. Dabei versuche ich, möglichst nicht zu schnell und nicht zu sehr zu bewerten – sowohl während ich die vielen neuen Eindrücke wahrnehme, die jeden Tag auf mich einströmen, als auch wenn ich sie hier versuche wiederzugeben. Häufig schießt mir sofort der Gedanke durch den Kopf „Das geht doch so nicht!“ oder „Das kann man doch so nicht machen!“ – wahrscheinlich „normal“ oder eben menschlich, aus meiner / unserer europäischen, deutschen Prägung und Sicht heraus. Inzwischen versuche ich jedoch vermehrt, mir selbst dann eher Fragen zu stellen wie „Warum ist das hier so?“ oder sogar „Könnte das vielleicht sinnvoll sein?“.
Ebenfalls möchte ich hier noch erwähnen, dass ich für alle Fotos, auf denen konkret Menschen abgebildet sind, vorab das Einverständnis der abgelichteten Personen eingeholt habe (bei Minderjährigen die Erziehungsberechtigten bzw. gesetzlichen Vertreter 😉 ).

Voraussichtlich werde ich die verschiedenen Themenbereiche, die ich ansprechen werde, zukünftig in irgendeiner mir sinnvoll erscheinenden Form kategorisieren und zusammenfassen, sodass das Ganze eine gewisse Struktur erhält und die einzelnen Beiträge nicht zu lang(atmig) werden. Für heute bitte ich um Verständnis, dass es noch etwas unstrukturiert sein wird. Der Einfachheit halber werde ich die ersten beiden Wochen, die durch die nächsten Einträge abgedeckt sein werden, mehr oder weniger chronologisch „abarbeiten“, sodass ich nichts mir erwähnenswert Erscheinendes vergesse.

Bevor ich über meine Eindrücke hier in Malawi tatsächlich berichten kann, möchte ich dem interessierten Leser nicht vorenthalten, wie ich hier überhaupt hergekommen bin – ein kurzer Anreisebericht also. Wen das nicht interessiert, darf dann gern gleich zum nächsten Artikel übergehen.

Die Anreise ab Sonntagabend, 25. Februar, gestaltete sich völlig problemlos – ich schrieb es manchem schon auf anderem Weg, das war schon fast unheimlich. Irgendwann dann doch unter massivem Zeitdruck, habe ich beim Packen am Sonntagnachmittag irgendwann aufgegeben, zu versuchen, alles Gepäck in den zwei großen Koffern unterzubringen, die ich kostenlos mitnehmen durfte, packte einen dritten (kleinen) Koffer und nahm in Kauf, dass dieser dann eben luftfrachtübliche Extrakosten verursachen würde. Mit dem Zug ging es vom Stuttgarter Noch-Kopfbahnhof nach Frankfurt – von dort aus mit Ethiopian Airlines über Addis Abeba (Äthiopien) nach Lilongwe, der Hauptstadt von Malawi. Die nette Flughafenmitarbeiterin beim Check-in in Frankfurt ließ sowohl meine beiden jeweils um ein paar Kilos zu schweren großen als auch den zusätzlichen kleinen Koffer kostenlos (!) durch, mit dem Kommentar „Diese Airline macht da keine Probleme“. Mein Handgepäck, was ziemlich genau doppelt so schwer war wie eigentlich erlaubt, wurde auch nicht gewogen. Erste Hürde deutlich problemloser als erwartet überwunden!
Nach einem ruhigen und entspannten Nachtflug mit einem freien Platz zwischen mir und meinem Sitznachbarn erreichte ich gegen 3 Uhr morgens Addis Abeba – Zwischenstopp in einer anderen Welt, das wurde schon auf dem Flughafen deutlich. Pünktlich ging es ein paar Stunden später weiter und gegen 13 Uhr Ortszeit landete ich auf dem Kamuzu International Airport in Lilongwe, ein gemütlicher kleiner Flughafen, verglichen mit Frankfurt. Was mir bereits beim Landeanflug auffiel: Malawi ist (aktuell) unglaublich grün und durchzogen von unzähligen Sträßchen mitten im Grün, die meisten davon rot und damit nicht asphaltiert.
Als erste Amtshandlung vor Ort musste ich mich um das Visum kümmern, um überhaupt wirklich einreisen zu dürfen. Dies wird direkt vor Ort erledigt. Zuerst hatte ich ein Formular auszufüllen – wer bin ich, was will ich in Malawi, wie lange werde ich bleiben und wo und so weiter. Meine Einladungsschreiben von der deutschen und hiesigen Organisation sowie mein beglaubigt übersetztes Führungszeugnis (das ich am Sonntag kurz vor Abflug noch Spitz auf Knopf bei einer freundlichen Übersetzerin in Stuttgart abgeholt hatte) – alles hatte ich parat und machte mich auf ein gründliches Verhör durch die Beamten der Einreisebehörde gefasst. In einer recht langen Schlange stellte ich mich an, um also ein 12-Monats-Visum zu beantragen, das die mehrfache Ein- und Ausreise erlaubt. An der Reihe, wollte der Beamte zu meiner Überraschung keines meiner mitgebrachten Dokumente sehen, er überflog nur schnell das ausgefüllte Formular, versicherte sich nochmals, dass ich wirklich das angekreuzte Visum wollte, wies mich darauf hin, dass dies 250 US-Dollar kosten würde und schickte mich dann zum nächsten Beamten, wo die Bezahlung erfolgen sollte. In der Zwischenzeit war sicher schon eine Stunde vergangen. Eine Dame in Uniform, die mit ihrem Handy telefonierte, näherte sich mir und forderte mich auf, ihr meinen Reisepass zu zeigen. Ich wusste nicht so recht, wer sie war und was sie wollte und zeigte ihr doch zögerlich meinen Pass – die 250 US-Dollar Visagebühr nahm ich zuvor heraus. Sie meinte, ich solle ihr den Pass geben, sie würde sich um mein Visum kümmern, sodass es schneller gehe. Misstrauisch, wie ich als Deutscher eben so bin ;-), habe ich dankend abgelehnt und gemeint, es würde sicher nicht mehr lange dauern und ich würde ja bald an der Reihe sein. Sie kehrte dann auf ihren Platz in einer der Kabinen zurück, erst da erkannte ich, dass sie eben auch eine Beamtin der Einreisebehörde war, an der ich später sowieso vorbeikommen würde. Ohne zu verstehen, was gesprochen wurde, erkannte ich, dass sie mit ihrer Kollegin in der Kabine nebenan über den „Mzungu“ scherzte – ich musste dann selbst über mich lachen und hatte die erste kleine Lektion gelernt, dass man manches Mal auch einfach Vertrauen haben könnte. Im Nachhinein stellte sich heraus, dass mein Arbeitskollege Erick, der draußen am Flughafen auf mich wartete, seine Verbindungen spielen lassen wollte, um mir – und sich 😉 – weitere Wartezeit zu ersparen. Ich blieb also schön in der Schlange, um ganz regulär zu Bezahlen, ohne Abkürzung. Dann über die nächste Schlange zum nächsten Schalter, wo die freundliche Dame mich lachend empfing und das Visum vorbereitete, schließlich zum letzten Schalter, wo das Visum dann in meinen Pass eingeklebt wurde. Abschließend ging es dann noch durch die Passkontrolle, die ich mit dem soeben erhaltenen Visum problemlos passierte. Damit war ich offiziell in Malawi angekommen!

PS: Bilder gibt’s dieses Mal keine, die hatte ich ja bereits vorab geliefert. Für diejenigen, die den Blog zum ersten Mal besuchen, hier geht es zu den ersten Eindrücken.

1.082 Kommentare

  1. Vielen Dank für die Infos und die Bilder.
    Wir freuen uns auf deine weiteren Beiträge.
    Alles Gute und viele Grüße
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